We are back at the shop [with power but no internet] and have shipped all pending orders. We should be back to our regular shipping times of 1 business day, pending no additional outages or internet failures. I will keep this message up until we can verify that our shipping schedule is back to normal, but I do not foresee any future issues.
Thank you for your patience while we worked through the difficulties of this storm. I very much appreciate your business.
Hurricane Ida passed about 40 miles west of our home and warehouse. While we luckily sustained no damage, we are without power, water and internet service. We hope to be back up and running in the next week or two, but we have no concrete estimate of when we will begin shipping again. My best guess at this point is somewhere around the 13th of September. I will continue to update this page as I have more information and a clearer estimate of shipping dates.
Hurricane Ida is bearing down on us and is expected, as of this writing, to hit our area sometime late Sunday night and into Monday. It is almost certain that this will impact our ability to ship orders early next week, and possibly longer.
We often brace for these storms and they take a last minute turn, or weaken to the point that normal work can be resumed within a day of its passing, but we have to always plan for the worst. It looks like we will be on the eastern side of this storm, which carries the most rain and wind.
Shipping impacts for all orders:
So, having said that, all orders placed after 10am Friday will have a tentative ship date of Tuesday, August 31. If it appears that we will not be able to ship on that day, I will post updates here with any information that we have.
I DO NOT recommend placing time-sensitive orders until this storm has passed and we have a better idea of what our shipping schedule will be. All other orders will be held in a “Processing” status until they can be shipped. I will be happy to cancel any orders if necessary, but keep in mind that our internet access may be limited so please be patient until we are back up and running.
I hope everyone in Ida’s path can stay safe.
Mike @ Vintique
When Fusion surprised us all with 11 new colors, I was most surprised by the fact that one of them was another white (or off-white as they describe it). By looking at the jar, both in pictures and in person, it looks like a more traditional white. And that fact started spurring questions on social media of how it compares the the standard white, Casement.
It didn’t help that Fusion’s own comparison paddle showed it in-between Lamp White and Raw Silk. I do think it is glaringly obvious that it is not a standard bright white, but sandwiching it between a cool light gray and a taupey off-white didn’t do it any favors in my opinion. What we really need is a side-by-side comparison with the true whites to see its real color.
I decided to paint a cabinet door and split it between three colors: Casement, Victorian Lace and Picket Fence. Sandwiching the new color between the two brightest whites should give us a pretty good idea of its true color.
To prep the raw oak wood door, I did one coat of Fusion Transition as a base. This served a couple of purposes. First, it put a coat of wet paint on the raw wood, raising the grain so that I could sand it smooth again. Since this was for display purposes only, I did a very quick, very light sanding just to knock the “fuzz” off. The second reason is to give an extra layer of paint for the whites to hide the color of the oak underneath. Whites are not great cover colors, and Casement is the least opaque of the three.
I then taped the door in thirds so I could paint the outer colors first. Three coats of each were put on top of the Transition base, so there is a total of 4 layers of paint for each color. Casement is on the left and Picket Fence is on the right. Once the outer colors were painted, I re-taped and painted Victorian Lace in the center.
The first picture was taken outside in indirect natural light, and is not color-corrected. As we can see, Victorian Lace is not a true white, but is more of a cool off-white. This is the color slot that Lamp White has always occupied, but it is a harsher grayish-white than Victorian Lace, as you can see on the painted paddle above.
The second picture is taken in under our bright daylight LED studio lights. The natural light in the first picture tended to wash out the color just a bit, whereas the indoor lighting really enhances its color tone.
This little exercise has also allowed us to truly see Picket Fence and Casement with a nice, neutral color between them. When they are side-by-side, it can be hard to make a decision between the two because they are so similar. Sure, Picket Fence is slightly warmer and brighter, but it can be hard to translate that to your home in your light with your decor and color scheme. I hope this helps!
If there are any other color comparisons you’d like to see, leave me a comment below or get in touch via Instagram or Facebook!
Limited Release Colors:
LMH Colors – Recently retired
Retired color archive
Exciting news! Fusion released 11 new colors! This is a collection of whimsical colors inspired by everyday items, and features on-trend colors: neutrals, grays, greens and blues and a new pink!
Here is the new color card. We will have them in stock as soon as they are made available to us!
And here is a quick color block chart of the new colors:
Lets take a quick look at the new colors!
A timeless green with a lush feel. This versatile sage-inspired shade works beautifully with both classic and modern decor.
Plaster for a classic feel
Cathedral Taupe for a warm, earthy look
The soft sage colour really shows itself when compared to the neutral grey of Little Lamb on the left and Lichen on the right. A perfectly soft and sophisticated sage green, Bellwood will beautifully enhance your space.
This versatile blue-green has a grey tint, making it the perfect choice to make a bold statement on its own or as a neutral foundation within any room.
Victorian Lace for a warm, relaxed look
Fort York Red for a pop of contrast
When compared to our other blues, it’s softer and more muted. Looking at our Champness a pure blue tone on the left, it’s darker and more grey. When compared to Homestead Blue on the right, it’s lighter and less intense, really showing off it’s gray tone while still offering depth.
Wrap up in the warmth of this luxurious neutral. Soft and elegant, this shade offers a slight cream undertone.
Paisley for an unexpected sense of playfulness
Damask for a luxe look
When compared to our other neutral off whites,
Directly compared to our Lamp white on the left you can really see the cream undertone, however when compared to Champlain on the right, it’s much more subdued and soft, leaning more towards a neutral slightly grey undertone. This gorgeous neutral is bound to be a pillar colour in your home decor.
A grounding neutral inspired by enchanting castle walls. This shade reflects light beautifully and creates an instant feeling of cozy sophistication.
Blue Pine for a feeling of whimsy
Algonquin for a warm, natural palette
Chateau is a warm neutral grey when compared to our cool tone Lamp white on the left. It shows it neutrality and lightness when compared with Cathedral Taupe on the right Chateau, as beautiful as it sounds.
This warm grey is inspired by winding cobblestone roads€“ equal parts romantic and sophisticated.
Bedford for a truly traditional look
Homestead Blue to bring a laid back vibe
This neutral really shows its warmth when compared with our Sterling colour on the Left a pure cool toned grey.
When compared with our creamy neutral, Champlain on the right Cobblestone looks like the perfect warm neutral.
A muted green with undertones of grey, this shade is calming and serene.
Raw Silk for a calm, serene space
Lamp White for a perfect neutral pairing with depth
This colour plays on the blue tones of the natural eucalyptus plant. We can really see this when compared to Bedford on the left, Lichen on the right.
This deep grey feels both warm and grounding. Use it to create dimension as an accent or to make a dramatic statement.
Cashmere for a neutral look
Rose Water for a feminine flair
This rich deep warm tone really shows its colour when compared to our cool toned Soap Stone on the left and its depth when compared to Little Lamb on the Right. Hazelwood is bound to be a your go to deep neutral in your home decor for a sophisticated, yet soft rich look and feel.
Playful and charming, this periwinkle brings a cheerful pop of colour to any room.
Casement for a refined yet effortless look
Lamp White for added sophistication
Mist is unlike any other colour in our range. Fun, pure and inspiring. This light periwinkle really shows it’s purple undertone when compared to our soft light blue Little Whale on the left, and shows its pure vibrancy when compared to our Casement white on the right. Mist is bound to make a statement in your home.
An ode to our heritage. Inspired by the rivers edge that runs through the beautiful town of Paisley, Scotland; this multitone blue evokes a whimsical feeling.
Little Whale for a neutral tone-on-tone backdrop
Rose Water for a charming twist
This truly inspiring blue reveals its softness when compared to our more pure and bright Champness on the left. When paired next to a neutral grey on the Right, known as Pebble its shows its cool tone and its depth of colour. Paisley, A beautiful and inspiring shade of blue.
A neutral pink inspired by the droplets from steeped rose petals. Delicate and modern, this shade is stylish in any space.
Cobblestone for a timeless feel
Victorian Lace for a purely glamorous look
Rose Water really is unique, unlike our other two pinks in our range you can see when compared with our light pink Peony on the left, it takes on a completely different tone, with a softer almost blush pink, whereas when compared to Damask on the right, it’s a lighter and purer looking, A gorgeous sophisticated pink.
Romantic in every way, this multitone white is perfectly balanced between warm and cool. This shade is inspired by the intricate details of its namesake.
Little Lamb for a chic tone-on-tone look
Inglenook for added depth
You’ve found the perfect neutral with Victorian Lace. This beautiful off white lends more to the cool side, while still maintaining a crisper white tone. The purity of this colour shows when compared with Lamp White on the left and Raw Silk on the right . Victorian Lace is the perfect neutral tone off white staple for your home decor.
I hope that gives you some ideas for future projects!
Pre-orders begin today, with product beginning to ship July 16, 2021. Regular stock should be available and shipping at the end of July.
Probably the most common question I get is “What is the difference between Mineral Paint and Milk Paint?” And, honestly, it was less frequently asked before Fusion introduced their own ‘Milk Paint by Fusion’ line. Having two types of paint under the same “brand umbrella” seemed to blur the lines a bit for those that were unaware of the differences. But fear not, I am going to walk you through the differences and explain each one individually.
The good folks at Fusion have created a handy infographic (down below) that will quickly explain the differences by one.
Mineral Paint is a ready-made paint in a jar that requires little more than a quick shake to use it. True milk paint in general (and Fusion’s is no different) is a powder that is mixed with water to create your paint. Typically the ratio is one part paint to one part water (or 1:1) and results in a paint that is the consistency of, you guessed it, milk! A little thicker than water but a little thinner than cream. This can vary with color and desired effect. Lighter colors sometimes require less water to make them thick enough to cover well. While mixing paint requires a tiny bit of time and effort, there are some distinct advantages.
- Milk paint can be mixed thinner (up to 3:1 water:paint powder) to make the equivalent of a stain in any color your choose. This is especially helpful when a whitewash effect is wanted over raw wood.
- Milk paint can also be mixed thicker, to the point that it creates a paste for adding texture to your project. The texture can be manipulated with tools or pushed through cheesecloth or a similar item to achieve a pattern of sorts.
- It is VERY easy to mix colors with milk paint. You can mix it after the water has been added and stirred, but the best way is to mix the powders together so you can keep track of EXACTLY how much of each color you used so you can easily recreate your recipe. A digital kitchen scale capable of milligrams is helpful here.
I said earlier the “true” milk paint is a powder. This is because there are companies that have been marketing canned “milk paint” for many years now. It is not a “true” milk paint because milk paint does not have a long shelf life. Milk paint is made with casein (milk protein) so it tends to go bad once it is mixed. The time varies with the paint and even the color, but I have had mixed milk paint in a sealed container last over two weeks. Typically, I would say that 24-48 hours is your best bet for using it before it begins to go bad.
Both Milk Paint and Mineral Paint require just a bit of prep work if you want the most durable finish you can have. And when I say “prep work” I am referring to prepping the surface to be painted. No matte what paint you use, the quality of your finish is directly related to the quality of your surface. A little prep goes a long way, especially with durability.
Both milk paint and mineral paint need to bond with the surface to form a durable finish. Certain surfaces with a slick or glossy coating can be challenging to get proper adhesion because the paint simply has nothing to grab onto. Paint needs a little “tooth” to adhere properly. Mineral paint is a little better in this instance, as it will bond with more surfaces than milk paint, but slick surfaces must be prepped for the best results.
Both paints use the same product to help with adhesion, Fusion Ultra Grip, although it is used differently depending on the paint you choose.
When using mineral paint, Ultra Grip is applied to the surface BEFORE painting. A thin coat with a roller or brush is all that is necessary to help the paint to adhere to the surface. It will dry clear, so if you are planning to distress your piece you will not see it.
For milk paint, Ultra Grip (also referred to as bonding agent) is mixed WITH the paint at an equal ratio to the paint powder and water (in other words 1:1:1). This creates a paint that is more prone to adhering to difficult surfaces. Also, bonding agent should be used in all paint layers for the best results.
And regarding the above mentioned ratios, it does not matter what measuring device you use. It can be a teaspoon, a cup, or a random scoop. The point is that it is measured by volume, not weight. We are making paint, not bread.
According to the chart below, mineral paint does not need a top coat and milk paint does. This is true in MOST instances, but not all. When milk paint is applied to a porous surface (raw wood, terra cotta, concrete, etc.) it will generally bond to that surface well enough to render a top coat optional. Unfortunately, we don’t often paint raw wood when we are redoing furniture, so a top coat helps to protect your milk paint once it dries.
Both paints have a similar finish, but milk paint is a wee-bit chalkier. It also reveals a slight amount of color variation because of how the paint powder mixes into the water. This is my favorite part about milk paint!
Water resistance is mostly referring to how water affects the paint finish itself. Mineral paint dries very hard with an acrylic “shell” that provides a certain amount of water resistance. I would NOT recommend leaving a glass of iced tea on your mineral-painted surface, but if it gets wet and wiped up in a reasonable amount of time no harm done.
Milk paint, on the other hand, is a bit on the water-soluble side in that water can interrupt its adhesion to the surface. This is why a topcoat is more or less necessary. An acrylic top coat like Fusion Tough Coat Matte or Fusion Tough Coat Gloss is best in this situation as waxes do not have permanent water resistance. Water will certainly bead up on a waxed surface, but left for any period of time it will soak through and leave a mark on your paint.
How to Store
A long shelf life is common to both paints in their original form. Mineral paint in a tightly sealed container can be stored for YEARS (7 years according to Fusion) and milk paint can be stored in its dry form indefinitely. But as I stated earlier, once milk paint is mixed with water its shelf life drops to somewhere between 24 hours and 2 weeks depending on several factors.
Indoor vs. Outdoor
Both paints can definitely be used outdoors. The difference is determined by the finish used on top of the paint. Because mineral paint itself is water resistant, it can be used outdoors with minimal issue. Use of an exterior water-based topcoat will extend its life even more. Milk Paint, on the other hand, requires a topcoat to be waterproof. And the best topcoat in this situation is an oil-based topcoat. Generally, the most widely accepted oil-based topcoat is 100% tung oil. The only disadvantage to tung oil is that it is slightly amber in color, so using it over a bright white or certain other colors will produce a color slightly off from the original, usually a bit darker and a tad bit more yellow.
Dry, Recoat, and Cure Time
This one is confusing for a LOT of people. Three different terms with three different meanings. Lets go through them one by one. This is a long and important explanation, so bear with me here.
- Dry Time – Dry time is how long it takes paint to be dry to the touch. This is somewhat misleading because with a thicker layer of paint the surface may be dry (because it is exposed to air and paint dries top down) but it may still be wet closer to the surface. This is PRECISELY why it is not a good idea to “back-brush” or “back-roll” over an area that you painted even a couple of minutes ago. Your brush or roller can literally move the top layer of semi-dry paint around on the wet layer below. You will also increase your brush or roller strokes because once the paint starts to dry it can no longer self-level and your brush strokes will be more prominent.
- Recoat Time – This is the amount of time the paint needs to be recoated. This is to prevent what I just discussed above about moving the dry layer around on the wet layer, but more importantly about not allowing moisture to become trapped under your paint. If your first coat is only partially dry, a second coat on top of it will dry faster than the first coat (because it is closer to the air above) and seal in the moisture of the first coat. This will cause your paint to not adhere properly because the trapped moisture will prevent it from sticking properly. It can also cause other horrors like bleed and other color inconsistencies. This step is important! Give your paint time to dry before recoating.
- Cure Time – Paint not only dries, it cures. Curing is the amount of time it takes paint to harden to its maximum hardness. Because milk paint by itself does not contain any synthetic resins like acrylic or polyurethane (and is typically thinner than mineral paint), its dries and cures in a very short time and thus can be recoated in as little as 20-30 minutes. Mineral Paint, however, gets harder over time as the acrylic resin cures. This is why it is best to not use your piece of furniture for up to one month if it will receive a heavy amount of use or abuse, like a dining room table top or kitchen cabinets. Now, obviously, most of us cannot avoid using our cabinets for 30 days, so a bit of caution for the first month will help keep your fresh paint looking its best.
This subject gets a little sticky when using bonding agent in your milk paint. Because bonding agent is the made from the same acrylic resin that is used to make (acrylic) mineral paint, it follows the same guidelines for dry, recoat and cure times.
Brush strokes. Ugh. Nobody likes brush strokes. Problem is, no matter what paint you use, if you use a brush you will likely see brush strokes, EXCEPT milk paint! Because milk paint is typically mixed thinner than mineral paint (or latex paint, etc.) brush strokes will self level themselves better than other paints. Even rollers leave roller texture. While Fusion Mineral Paint does have an excellent way of minimizing brush and roller texture, nothing beats milk paint. Even when mixed with bonding agent!
This one is more of a comparison between their own two paint lines. Fusion currently offers 53 colors of Mineral Paint and 25 colors of Milk Paint. Now, taking into consideration that we carry THREE brands of milk paint that are all made by the same factory (Milk Paint by Fusion, Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint and Homestead House Milk Paint all made at the Homestead House Paint Co. factory) and have the same mixing and use instructions, this means that we have a total of 96 colors of milk paint available. Yes, some of the colors overlap a bit. And some of the colors are the same colors as the Mineral Paint line, which gives additional options for layering multiple shades of the same color, but more on that in another post!
Here is where milk paint really shines. Both paints can be used for clean, modern looks. Both paints can be used for a vintage, distressed look. But milk paint can give you things that mineral paint cannot, like a chippy finish or a weathered rough finish (this can be achieved with mineral paint by using Fusion’s Fresco). And with a little practice, milk paint can be blended into a cohesive yet multi colored finish that is difficult to achieve with ANY other paint.
So, the infographic below is the short version of what I have been discussing in this post. I hope that I have given you some insight as to the real differences between these two paints, and more generally milk paint vs. ready-made paints of any kind, including chalky paints and latex paints because most of the same principles apply.
I hope this post was informative and I welcome you to our new site! This is just the first of what I plan to be many informative articles about milk paint, mineral paint, chalk-based paint, and furniture paint in general. I look forward to growing our content catalog with relevant and educational posts and even possibly a video or two.
Stay safe and keep wearing your mask!
Mike @ Vintique
The wait is over! As I have said many times in previous posts and emails, this site has been a labor of love. I began the journey of this new web site way back in November of 2019, researching new platforms and identifying the features that I wanted the new site to have. While our last site was functional and served its purpose, it lacked several functionalities that modern web sites have to make online shopping easier. I think our new site accomplishes that goal, so lets go through a few:
Yes, search! As simple as it may sound, it was a difficult feature to implement on our old web site. The new site has a robust search capability that assists you in the process. The search bar is in the top right corner of the site, on every page. You can type something as simple as “blue paint” and it will return every blue paint we offer. If you type “Fusion blue paint” it will return all blue paints under the Fusion brand. I put a tremendous amount of time and effort into getting this search feature (and the next feature we discuss: Filters) to work properly and return accurate results, and it was the bulk of the time spent designing the new site. I hope you find it useful!
If you are not certain what exactly you are searching for, then Filters will allow you to drill down into the product catalog to find products by attributes like color, size or paint type. They work on the “or” principle, which means you can select more than one attribute to widen your search. For example, if you are not sure if you want a blue or a green paint you can select blue, green and turquoise and see all options at the same time. You can also filter by Brand, size, sheen and paint type.
Wish List is a new feature that allows you to keep a list of products that you’d like to order in the future, or just to remind yourself to look at them again. Your wishlist is kept in your “My Account” section and there is a link at the top of the page.
The single MOST requested feature BY FAR is a waiting list, and I am ECSTATIC to introduce it to you today! Our waiting list will automatically notify you when an item that you would like to purchase is back in stock. You will have to verify your “subscription” by email, but it will only be used to notify you about that particular product. Once you have been notified, the item will be removed from your list so you will only be notified once. You can always add it again if it goes out of stock again.
Note: This should not be confused with the Wish List. The wish list WILL NOT notify you of anything. It is simply a list you keep for your own reference. The waiting list is a notification service, and can be accessed from any product page.
Also on the product page you will find the Product Reviews tab. There are three tabs below each product’s image on the product page: Description, Additional Information and Reviews. I invite and encourage all customers to review any items in our catalog. I try very hard to make sure that all products on our site meet my own standards of quality as if I was one of our customers, and reviews are valuable in evaluating a product before purchasing it. It can also act to alert us to a product that may need a higher level of scrutiny in terms of quality, or how we represent it in images or text descriptions and filterable attributes.
One carryover from our previous site will be a more prominent display of our expected shipment ETA’s. While I hope that these will become a thing of the past very soon, as Fusion gets completely caught up on shipping paint in adequate quantities and in a timely manner, I will keep these at the top of our page until that day comes and we no longer need them. The Waiting List feature is also designed to reduce the need for specific shipment notifications and I plan to discontinue our regular shipment email once this feature is put to good use by our customers.
Another item that turned out to be more complicated than I expected was existing customer Order History. Your order history can be found in your “My Account” page. Our previous web site platform did not have a favorable format for exporting order history data, so I enlisted the help of a company that specializes in exactly this. While the transfer did seem to do what it was supposed to do, there are. a few inconsistencies here and there. Order numbers will not be the same as the old site, and order dates may or may not match. Also, although products are displayed in your history you will not be able to use them as links to re-order them, unfortunately. This was a technical issue between he old site and the new one that I could not get fixed. All orders starting now on the new site will have reorder links in your order history.
I think that pretty much wraps it up. Again, I hope that everyone finds these improvements helpful and worthy of the wait. The transfer from one server to another was a little more complicated than I had hoped, and took longer than planned, but I am really excited about the results. Also, a big welcome to all of our customers from vintiquefinishes.co where we sold Debi’s DIY Paint exclusively! The main goal when I started this project was to combine the two sites into one. There were reasons that they had to be separated, which I will go into in another post, but I was able get it done on this new platform and still keep all shipping guidelines in tact and not breach any of our retailer agreements.
Enjoy the new site and please don’t hesitate to reach out in any available contact format. We have comments below, email, phone, contact page, reviews, Facebook and soon a couple of new options! A chat feature is something that I was unable to implement in the new site upon its launch, but I am hoping to be able to have a more-or-less instant contact capability in place in the very near future.
Thanks so much for your patronage and your patience while I worked on this mountain of web site work!
-Mike @ Vinique
Most orders are shipped out via USPS Priority Mail within 1-2 business days. Average arrival time is 3 business days once shipped. Due to COVID and the 2020 holiday season (as well as other factors), many shipments have been experiencing delays of up to 14 days or more. Please understand that this is beyond our control and be patient. Check your tracking info and if it gets stuck somewhere, let us know and we will submit a missing package inquiry with the Post Office.
With the rising cost of shipping services, especially the USPS, it has come time to increase our minimum order amount for free shipping. Effective immediately, 1/27/21, free shipping is available on all orders $99 and up excluding all Debi’s DIY products. Our retailer agreement does not allow free shipping on the DIY Paint line, so we are not able to offer it. What does that mean, exactly? Let me clarify:
Any order containing a DIY branded product will incur a shipping charge, even if the order contains $99 of eligible products. I have created a shipping table that gives the lowest possible shipping prices that we can allow determined by weight.
But what about your Fusion order? Fusion shipping prices are the absolute lowest we can manage and still offer the level of service that we are accustomed to giving, with 1-2 day turnarounds and 2-3 day Priority Mail shipments for most orders.
Fusion (and most other products) shipping tiers:
$2.99 – Color cards and most brushes under 8oz
$3.99 – Total weight under 16oz
$4.99 – Total weight under 2.5# (one jar of Fusion paint, for example)
$6.99 – Most orders above one jar of paint but under 10#
$9.99 – Orders over 10# (you should almost reach the $99 minimum at this level)
So, if you are used to getting free shipping at the previous $49 minimum order, most orders will pay a low shipping cost of $6.99 for up to 4 jars of paint, or similarly-weighted items.
DIY Paint shipping tiers:
$4.99 – under 16oz (most 8 oz jars fit this category)
$6.99 – under 4# (one quart or two pints of DIY Paint)
$9.99 – under 8# (two quarts)
$14.99 – under 15# (four quarts)
$19.99 – under 30#
$29.99 – under 45# (about 12 quarts)
$39.99 to $59.99 – 45# and up
*Note: This is a complicated calculation, and I am working very hard to make sure that the cart calculates shipping accurately. IF fo any reason you suspect it is not, please let me know.
— Mike @ Vintique
Links to paint will be added soon!